GIZZARD SHAD QUICK TIPS

 

One cannot simply grasp how important Gizzard shad are to our water ways as a bait fish.  They are literally the meat and potatoes and everyday fare of too many species to count.  There mere presence in most reservoirs is a good indication that there are going to be some really nice game fish present,  If that water way boasts a healthy and properly managed shad population, you can bet those gamefish you target are going to be "thick".

Looking at the distribution map above, one can easily see these little guys are adaptable to a wide range of waters and temperature ranges, making them the preferred forage stocking option in most of the country, although that option does come with caveats.

They have high growth rates and if they live to age 3, they are starting to reach the size where they are too big of forage for most fish.

If they do reach this size, they then can rapidly become a detriment on the waters ecosystem, straining available resources for almost every other species of fish.  Quite simply, introducing them is the easy part.  Managing their numbers and size effectively is quite another.

 A BRIEF LOOK INTO SHAD IN MY AREA

I fish a few lakes that have shad present.  Chief among these are the Lake Sharpe, Oahe and Lewis and Clark Lake, all reservoirs on the Missouri River system, so I am going to use them as an example 

From what I have researched, Gizzard shad were already present throughout the Missouri River system before any of the dams were built.   Once they were built, Gizzard shad were not present in  after Oahe was finished.  Thus, it seemed that Oahe seemed to be the northernmost limit of their range.  

It wasn't until the late 90's that gizzard shad suddenly started appearing in survey nets that biologists  knew something had changed.

That something was shad stockings in western South Dakota reservoirs.  Shadehill and Angostura.  These stockings happened in the 1990's in an effort to help increase the forage base for walleyes in those reservoirs.

Mother Nature had other plans.  The mid- late 90's saw a lot of high water years and as a result, gizzard shad passed through or over those spillways and found their way into both the Cheyenne and Grand Rivers.  Once they were present  in those systems, it was only a matter of time before they followed the tributaries to Oahe.  

 Since then, Oahe has had a growing shad population.  Lake Sharpe already had a healthy shad population. Lewis and Clark shad were stocked a while ago and from I hear, are doing well..  They are now an important part of those ecosystems  and for now, it seems that they are in a healthy balance. 

So, in an effort to actually use this to our advantage, we need to understand some basic facts and info on their patterns and behaviors.

Since I fish both these reservoirs quite frequently, I wanted to know all I could about them.

SHAD QUICK FACTS

It seems through all the documentation I've read through so far that Gizzard Shad in these reservoirs tend to spawn in mid to late May or when the water temps heat that magic mark of 64-69 degrees F. 

They prefer to spawn during stable or warming trends.

By August or September, the young shad become large enough to attract the attention of predators like Pike, White Bass, Smallmouth, and walleye.  Its unclear if Chinooks or Atlantics (In Oahe) prey upon them at this point, but my instincts tell me if they do, it would be juvenile fish only.

Shad prefer quieter open waters or the edges of strong currents.  Optimum habitat for them is fertile shallow bodies of water that are warm, with soft muddy bottoms, low predator counts and high turbidity.  Unfortunately, if they find such places, that almost always leads to an overpopulation of shad.

Changing water levels, deep clear water, steeper shorelines and moderate to heavy predation all lead to lower gizzard shad populations according to several papers I researched.

Another item of note is that Gizzard Shad typically feed during the day and try to minimize their activity in low light periods.  

They also feed on detritus and mud.  One can make a fairly logical assumption if you can find mud flats with a few of those optimum habitat variables present, shad should be present or somewhere near by, at various times of the year..

The behaviors I have mentioned are fairly typical of gizzard shad.  How they apply to the bodies of water each individual fishes is open to each individuals interpretation of available shad preferences.  

Make educated guesses, get information from the locals, observe surface activity (gulls tend to be good locators of shad)...try to put all those pieces together and give yourself a better chance of connecting fish.  

Just remember, those predators feeding on shad may not be immediately nearby, but chances are pretty high they are relatively close.  Look at structural elements, cover, current etc to try and further define viable fish locations.  

Keep those lines wet, those hooks sharp and the fish afraid.  

 

.

THE BOGSTALKER SHAD PATTERN

 

So I am sitting here in the man cave aka Lure Foundry thinking about a lot of different aspects of the 2021 fishing campaigns.  One of the things I usually do over the winter months is paint cranks or bladebaits.

The current craze is offbeat customized color patterns.  Crap that looks like someone was unaware of color compatibility and complimenting.  But that's probably the point I suppose.  Giving the fish something they've never seen before just to get their interest.

I cannot say I am a huge fan of these far out color schemes.  Especially the generic  yet still off the wall patterns predominating most of the tackle shop aisles. Go to any of the chain stores and you'll see exactly what I am talking about, but bring some sunglasses.

Do they catch fish?

I see people having luck with them in the big magazines so I have to assume they work, but none of the baits I actually bought or painted, with the exception of firetiger patterns,  have worked all that great for me.   A few fish here and there, but nothing as productive as natural patterns.  And as my experience with those color schemes is limited by where I fish, I really have no more room or inclination to argue the topic at this point in time.  I'll keep trying them to see if my success rates go up with them in the future, if only for the sake of satisfying my curiosity.  And who knows, maybe I'll change my tune.  After all, look at some of the ungodly color combos for salmon, trout and steelhead...and they are proven...

So, where do I go from here? What should I be painting?

Natural patterns are where I believe, through experience and success rates,  is where my focus should be.  Trying to mimic what nature has provided them as a food source.  Get the basic profile, length and color scheme in place and your odds of slaying some beasts improve.

Ok.  Another step in the right direction..  What natural pattern should that be?

Arguably, there are tons of different kind of baitfish in the area, like fathead minnows or emerald shiners.  I could (and probably will paint up a few of each).  However, the more I looked, it was obvious one forage fish was at the forefront.

Shad.  Gizzard shad especially as their threadfin cousins apparently do to well this far north, being susceptible to cold water die offs.

So in this neck of the woods, its almost all gizzard shad.  On the bigger reservoirs, all the way to Oahe, they are the primary source of forage for all types of fish.

I have painted shad patterns in the past.  Several different patterns to be specific.  All have had some modest success.  But I wanted something better, or at least in my mind, looked better in the water..

Enter the Bogstalker Shad pattern.  

This is the photo I opted to use for reference purposes.  Its relatively generic but representative of the color scheme I come across in shad most often, especially a little further north.

And this is actually the problem.  Different bodies of water produce shad with varying color schemes, as fish mature. The coloration of the male and female fish of a species can vary dramatically as well.   Finally, those fish that best blend in with their surroundings and environment have a much better chance of survival than those that don't.  Thus the perpetuation of different colorations of the same species of fish.

So in order to attempt this pattern, I again chose this specific blank as I did the cold water bluegill pattern.  

It has a vaguely similar profile and was small enough.  If I would have had any shad rap style blanks on hand, I would have opted for them instead.

First things first.  Ensure the bait is clean and free from oils, dirt or grime.  Was in soap or if necessary some other non reactive cleaner like windex or rubbing alcohol.

After the washing, allow it to dry thoroughly, checking to see if there are any leaks in the blank.  If there are, and you see any fluid within the body, discard the blank.  There is no reason to try and save it, because the odds are not in your favor.

If there are no leaks, make sure your tape the diving bill of the lure up before you start priming the bait.

Here is the blank primed with a Rustoleum flat white primer coat.  I prefer this brand to others because it seems to adhere to the plastic better.  

It tends to be quick drying as long as you don't over apply it and other types of pain adhere to it extremely well.  Very few problems with it, and that in itself is a huge plus.

One or two light coats are all that is usually needed to get the bait covered.

I also have started allowing the prime coat to stand unpainted overnight, ensuring everything is dry and cured and ready for the next coat.

Once the primer coat(s) are dry, its time to apply the chroming base.

Fancy terminology for applying the chrome spray paint.  Again, Rustoleum gets the job done for me  quite nicely.

I've found that using the Chrome spray paint from Rustoleum, the best shiny finishes are those that are just lightly applied.  They tend to be brighter and darken much less when sealer is applied.

That last bit there is a major issue for almost all bait painters.  Keeping that chrome shine without actually having the bait chromed.  I've tried all sort of different things, techniques etc, with varying success.  This works for me right now so I'll be sticking with this unless I come across another product that does a better job.

Again, let the paint dry.  Since it was a light coat, it shouldn't be too much of an issue to paint over it directly after a few minutes.  You can speed the drying process up with a light touch from a heat gun if need be,

Normally, I don't bother taping up the sides of a bait to get a delineation of color, as I love to blend colors together naturally, but when looking at a shad, you can see the proverbial shad spot higher on the shoulder than most commercially manufactured baits offer.

I had a choice.  I could still try to blend everything together naturally, or tape the bait up and make a clean line (which I am also not a fan of).  For aesthetic purposes, I choose to make the clean lie in an area I knew would allow me to get the contrast of the shad spot the way I wanted.

I should also note that since I opted to go this direction, I allowed a further 24 hour dry time for the chrome paint to really set in.  Nothing worse than taping up a bait to get a line and then peeling the tape off and having half your paint come off with it.  Trust me...curse words ensue.

I used Createx Pearlized gold for this back coloring.  I probably would have again used a Rustoleum gold paint if I had it on hand.  This worked, but required a few light coats, all heat treated with a portable personal heater, but a heat gun would have worked also.

This is the bait after I allowed the last coating of Createx to dry for about 15 minutes.  I gently peeled the green tape off.

Note to anyone using the blue painters tape.  If you use it, understand it might (probably will) take off your chrome paint.  For some reason it adheres really hard to blanks and makes it difficult to get off without damaging the bait.  Use at your own peril.

As you can see, with the differences in color, the delineation between the gold and chrome isn't jarring.  They compliment each other quite well and overall look relatively natural

I went back to look at the reference photo at this point and overall, I was pretty satisfied.  Not perfect but as I have said before, nothing in nature ever is so don't panic if something is a little off.

The next step is to lightly apply a dark base to the back.  I usually turn down the air pressure on my airbrush and use Createx Opaque Black.  

On the initial spine coating, I hold the airbrush a little closer to the bait to get a more solid and tighter brush pattern.  The goal is to get the spine covered with little to no overspray. If I decide I want a bit more overspray, I just bring the airbrush back towards me, or further away from the blank, than I used the previous pass.

Now the reason why I do this will become apparent here in a few more steps.

Typical example of the lightly sprayed spine (back) of a blank with only minor overspray along the shoulders.  

While I still have the Creatix Opaque black in the airbrush, I turn the airbrush pressure down a little more and use a fine spray to highlight the eye sockets and parts of the gill plates.  

If you look at most fish, there is usually a darker pattern around  or very near their eyes, so this step helps replicate that, bringing a balance of natural order to something that is not natural.  

Pay attention to darkening the nose and mouth areas as well, right above the diving bill.  Its very easy to forget to paint this small yet crucial area.

If necessary, add a few more drops of Createx Opaque Black to your airbrush.  Shouldn't take too much as we are now going to create the "shad spot" on the bait.  

Earlier I mentioned about limiting overspray along the shoulders of the bait for a reason.  This step is partially for that reason.  

Your air pressure should already be lowered, so keep it at that pressure and  using your trigger control, gently  ease the spot onto the bait.  

If you prefer, you can use a circular stencil to get that perfect circle, or you can free-hand it.  I've seen live shad with both tightly circular spots and those with smudgy spots, so its entirely a personal preference choice.

Now, for the last reason for only lightly over spraying the blanks shoulder area.  We are going to add a new color into the mix,

So, clean out your airbrush very well and add Sepia.

Again in the cold water bluegill pattern I mentioned how important that relatively unknown color was to creating more realism to artificial lures than anything else.  

This pattern is no exception to that law.

I usually increase the pressure on my airbrush at this point, making a few test sprays and making further adjustments until I get the spray I am looking for.  

Starting at the spine, make a few light passes, making sure to get just enough overspray to cover the shoulders of the blank.  One to three light coats should get you in the ballpark.

As you put each coat on, you'll notice the blank looking more lifelike, but don't over do it.  You'll eventually hit a point where all you are doing is blackening or darkening the bait and your shad spot will just blend right in with it...not good. 

Worst part is that it is super easy to let happen.  

Remember what I said about applying sealants,  They do not only after silvers and chromes....its all colors.  You would think something meant to be clear would allow the colors to shine through brightly, but light refraction and sealant thickness cut down the amount of light coming through the sealant, thus darkening the bait.

Moderation and patience are your best friends when painting lures.  Don't over do it.

So here are the baits before getting sealed.  Ive taken the tape off the diving lips, added the eyes and am not waiting for the sealant to warm up a bit.  (topic for a another article)

I have the original reference photo beneath this so you can see for yourself, the match in coloration is pretty close.  

Referring to bait size, these baits are about 1/3 of the fish pictured, which is typically the size I am looking for during the late summer.

So until next time, 

keep those lines tight, the hooks sharp and the fish afraid

SONGS OF ICE AND FIRE (OR 13 DIFFERENT WAYS TO KILL TIME UNTIL ICE OUT)

 

It's that time of year.  The holiday season is over and we've all just settled in for the "real" winter.  

The wind seems like it is always howling from the north, bringing with it that  lovely mixture of snow and miserable wind chill.  It snarls and growls at your doors and windows as it rushes by.

Then there are the other precious gifts nature has left in her wake.   Icicles hanging from your rooftop.  Your driveway and sidewalks are always drifted in, or you see your truck is buried ...again ...

To top it off,   the last time you checked you discovered your favorite body of water is frozen completely shut and all you can do now is sit in front of your fireplace and dream about ice-out and the first real days of spring.

 But we both know it's a long time between here and there.  Cue exasperated groaning and another shuffle step towards seasonal insanity. 

The long dark nights and short days drag this purgatorial period out far longer than it should actually last.  Kind of like one of those B-movie death scenes where it takes the guy 15 minutes to finally succumb to his injury.  Not pretty.

If you don't ice fish, like yours truly, this part of the year is truly the worst.  What is more worse, is that you have friends who do like to ice fish and they catch plenty in their heated shacks and portable huts.  They post their photos to social media and you are glad they are having a good time and being successful.   More power to them.  They can have it.

 So what else can you do to kill the time?

Fortunately, for you, I have a boatload of suggestions on how to keep so busy you'll swear winter just flew by. All based on decades of suffering through the dark days like these.  So my friend, toss another log on that fire, stoke those embers and sit back down because this might take a few minutes.

 

Suggestion 1: Clean out and re-arrange/organize tackle boxes

Tackleboxes get gnarly throughout the regular fishing season.  Tackle gets disorganized, jigheads and hooks mysteriously disappear into crevices, bits of gravel, sand and grass make their way onto the bottom, etc. etc.  

Now is as good as time as any to take everything out of it, clean it out and start reorganizing your tackle so its easy to find and easy to use.  Why wait to do it until last minute.  Make yourself useful.

Suggestion 2: Paint crankbaits, pour soft plastics or weights, or make crawler harnesses, hoochie rigs, tying flies etc

Ok.  Unless you have all or most of the stuff needed to accomplish any of these tasks, this might not help.  

However, if one of these things is something you want to learn about or more of, now is the time to jump at the opportunity.  You actually have the time to take a stab at some of these productive hobbies.

Hit the forums, group pages and other sources of information to gather what you need to know.

Suggestion 3: Plan out some fishing trips throughout the warm weather seasons

I try to use this downtime to my advantage any and every chance I get.  One of the things I do is start plotting out the new years fishing "campaign".  I identify several lakes or water bodies I've never been to before and incorporate trips to them within my regularly fishing schedule.  Part of planning to go to them involves trolling through archives of fishing reports to get a general idea on when is a really good time to go.  Nothing like driving 12 hours to a lake and find out no one has caught any fish the last month...

Suggestion 4: Read up on your favorites species of fish and refresh your angling awareness.

Cannot stress enough how important it is to read up on the latest information on your favorite species of fish, whether it involves new tactics to catch them, new insights on behavior, or new places to find them, any time you spend trying to improve your "game" is well spent.

Suggestion 5: Look for open water fishing opportunities

Ok, so nothing I have suggested so far trips your trigger.  You are looking to chuck and wind, soak some bait or what not.  Well, there always seem to be some open water options available if you are willing to try them.  Major river systems are often open and given the right conditions, can put out more than a few good fish, if you are really willing to brave the cold.  Don't let a little snow and ice deter you, but do practice safety, common sense and pay attention to your surroundings.  Getting soaked in winter is no joke.

Suggestion 6: Work on, clean or repair boat/kayak  and trailers (in heated garage)

I do believe that most of us who own boats and kayaks clean them up pretty well before winter hits, but there are individuals who don't.  If you are one of those individuals, and you have a heated garage, why not get the boat or kayak into the garage and get it cleaned up properly.  Start off the new year and fishing season right.

Suggestion 7:  Watch some fishing shows/videos

I think most of us do this already so this is almost habit, but if you don't, take some time to hit Youtube to find your favorite pro, or watch some TV shows.  While its not the same as being there, it does tend to get ones mind wandering into the right direction.  Plus, you never know what types of tips or tricks those guys might reveal.

Suggestion 8;  Watch some videos and learn more about your electronics.  And while you are at it, update them if needed.

Electronics. 

Don't care how good you think you are at reading them, odds are pretty high you're not as good as you think.  So why not use this down time to learn more about interpreting your sonar, how to get the most out of it,  and actually updating the software that runs it?

Dig out that user manual, really familiarize yourself with your units options and operation.  Electronics are some of the most valuable tools we have as anglers.  Learn how to use them to your advantage and to make you more successful on the water.

Suggestion 10:  Start stockpiling or making some road/trip snacks like jerky, trail mix, sticks, etc.

This might be one of my more favorite winter past times.  Getting some road grub made up ahead.  Grab and go.  Im talking trail mixes, jerkies, dehydrated fruit snacks, meat sticks etc.  

Everyone has their favorite gas station snacks.  It just seems each time you go into one to grab a quick snack it costs more than the last stop.  Drives me crazy.  How can an ounce or two of chips in about 6 ounces of air and a paper thing container cost me almost 2 freaking dollars?  Wrong answer.  Thats almost  the cost of a container of crawlers.

Save some money and make some up ahead of time...most specifically the meat sticks or jerky.  They freeze real well and damn, they are usually tasty. Deer, beef, turkey, goose or wildebeast, its all good when you are cruising down the road to your next fishing hole.  

As far as trail mixes, I have a personal recipe similar to the proverbial chex mix that makes awesome road grub.  I'll make some up a few months ahead of times, and use my vac sealer to keep it fresh.  It works great for dehydrated fruit snacks too.  

Suggestion 11: Get on the internet and start looking at expanding your horizons and scouting new lakes

Ok.  This has actually become a full time habit for me.  If I get a few spare moments, I'll hop on google and start searching state maps for lakes, rivers, reservoirs etc.  I love to check out general layouts, camping areas, area attractions, nearby amenities etc. And if I like what I see overhead, I'll make a note and then do further research at a later date and time.  

Its actually pretty important to get out and expand your fishing horizons.  Its all too easy to get locked into a single body of water and forget everything else.  It stifles growth, knowledge and who knows what kind of opportunities are missed.

The only time I would suggest actually really hammering on a single body of water is if you are completely intent on learning as much about it as you can and acknowledge it will come at the expense of other knowledge.

Suggestion 12: Get a head start on your new season by cleaning your reels and putting on fresh line

I do know a lot of people who neglect these items.  They never clean their reels, or ever put on fresh line.  They seem oblivious to the fact that dirt and dust get into your reels and sunlight silently and gradually damages your line.  The thought of replacing line isn't even on their radar.

So get a good start to your new year by hitting the water with fresh line and clean gear.  Clean gear will last you longer and provide more enjoyment than something that has sat neglected in your dusty garage for years.

Suggestion 13: Go through your tackle and sharpen or replace (when needed) all the hooks

I should have put this up there right next to the top, but this is a bit more intense.  Your tackle has hooks.  Crankbaits, jerkbaits, bladebaits, rattlebaits...they all have hooks.  Take the time to sharpen them all up, inspect them, and where needed, replace them with the correct size hook to keep them running right and to prevent losing any fish.  

Invest in a pair of good split ring pliers.  They are worth the money.

So, there you have some suggestions to kill some time.  I had some more but these ought to keep the average angler busy the rest of the winter.

Dont fret...spring is coming.  The ice will leave the lakes and streams and open water will be upon us all.  Keep the faith.

So until the next blog entry, 

SMELT

 

Rainbow smelt.  In terms of forage importance, it ranks right up there with gizzard shad.  Since I fish the missouri river a lot, particularly from Chamberlain SD northwards, I felt it was time to get to know a little bit more about this fish.  So I started doing some searches online, pulled some info from various sources and have tried cobbling it together into a somewhat compatible and easily digestible format for everyone to use.

In the plateau reservoirs of the Missouri River from Oahe all the way to Ft. Peck, smelt, along with gizzard shad are the primary forage.  Walleye and other gamefish will readily feed on both given the opportunity.  

When buying artificial baits remember that smelt average between 4-7 inches long, but can get up to almost 12 inches in length under certain conditions.  It does appear that there are some different colorations of this species in different lakes, so keep that in mind.

SPAWNING:

Rainbow smelt typically spawn around ice out, when water temperatures reach 44-47 degrees Fahrenheit and the spawning can last up to 3 weeks.

This is a nighttime activity from what I've read from about a dozen reputable academic and angling resources.  

Also noteworthy is the fact that they ascend into tributary streams with light flow and light siltation to spawn over gravel.

POST SPAWN AND LONGER-

Rainbow smelt, once spawning is complete, are known to school near adjacent cool dark waters.

Smelt are both light and temperature sensitive, typically keeping to the mid-depth regions of reservoirs and lakes.  As sunlight intensifies, their behavior mimics salmon in the fact that they may descend to greater depths, including schooling near the bottom,  to escape sunlight and warming water temperatures. One scientific paper I came across noted they can survive a wide range of temperatures and pH levels though they preferred the pH range of 6.   

Given that I looked through several other academic papers that suggested the smelt were temperature sensitive, the last one leads me to postulate that they will or can survive a wide temperature range as long as the changes are not too drastic or sudden. 

Smelts optimal preferred temperature range is a cool 45 degrees F.  

It is not uncommon for find "baitballs" (like the depthfinder picture shown) of smelt over open water.  If you come across these, note what depth the fish are holding at and adjust your presentations accordingly.

Something odd I came across was the fact that smelt are also known as the "cucumber fish" due to their cucumber like smell when freshly caught.

I cannot state if this is true or not as the only smelt I have ever used have all been deadbait and smell completely different.  

FINDING SMELT IN RESERVOIRS

Smelt in reservoirs typically stay shallow in spring and early summer.  secondary points in coves and bays often find smelt somewhere close.

It is only when the water temperatures get too high that they leave the shallows and suspend in the main deep reservoir body.  

Another option and area to look for in the summer, are the tips of the longest points that meet deep water. Smelt will often use these points to make forays along the structure.  And where there are smelt, there are often walleye and sometimes salmon.

In fall, you will find smelt move towards steep or fast dropping structure that meets deep water.

Something else to file away for future reference is that wind will bring smelt up out of the deep, calm conditions will push them back down into deeper water.  As they are light sensitive fish, this makes sense.  Wind cuts down the amount of sunlight making it into the water column.  

So in closing, this is about all the useful information I've found up to this point.  If by chance I luck across any other helpful informatioin, I'll be posting addendums or notations in pertinent locations.  Hoping this helps eliminate a lot of the guesswork out of using smelt to help pinpoint locations of other species like walleye and salmon.

Keep those lines wet, the hooks sharp and the fish afraid.

COLD WATER BLUEGILL PATTERN - FIRST ATTEMPT AT A NEW PATTERN.

Over the course of 2020, predominately fishing lowland/flatland lakes, I noticed a lot of things I had never noticed before..

At first, some of these items didn't make a lot of sense, but the more I fished and the more I dug into the available information I had or came across, the more I discovered just how important it was to be throwing bluegill imitations on these types of reservoirs.

Now it may seem like a no brainer to a lot of anglers, but the fact is that up until last year, I had never had much luck throwing bluegill imitating lures.  which in itself didn't make sense since I was seeing people using live bluegill and catching a lot of bigger fish, albeit catfish and some bass.

What threw me was that up to that point, most of the information I had on file pointed to walleyes aggressively feeding on bullhead or small catfish in those types of lakes throughout the year.  Panfish in general were only briefly mentioned as playing any type of role in establishing feeding patterns for walleye.  

It wasn't until one eater sized walleye I caught in June decided to regurgitate a rather large bluegill it had recently ingested that I began to realize just how important those panfish were to the day to day movements of the walleye.  Honestly, I thought given the overall  broad and tall shape of the panfish wasn't conducive to them being a primary source of forage.

Another incident in the beginning of July further cemented that importance as I came across a group of night catfishermen who had all popped walleye in the 23 inch range.  When I asked them about it, they said it was fairly common for them to score that size of walleye in the heat of the summer on live bluegill.

Fast forward to fall and the season I typically decide to harvest a few fish for the wife. 

Cleaning them and opening the stomach to see the contents revealed that bluegill were about the only thing those walleyes were eating at that time..  There were no catfish or bullheads even though catfish were present in wide size ranges throughout the lake and available in decent numbers.  Just stomachs nearly bursting with smaller gills and little to nothing else.

So I looked back over my lure choices which had been successful and I quickly discovered they all had at least one to two colors typical for bluegill that time of year.

I have painted bluegill patterns before and I have had limited success with them and I felt I now knew the reason why.  While the colors were the standard bluegill colors, they were still off.  The bluegill in the lakes I fished, especially this time of year had lost much of that color and had slightly different hues.  Plus, these were only about 3 inches long. The lures I had used had also been bigger.

Time to come up with a new bluegill pattern to mimic them during cooler water periods.  Not exactly an easy thing to do since bluegills regularly exhibit many different shades throughout the year.  Not uncommon to catch dozens of them even during summer and have them all slightly different shades. 

So, with that in mind,  I am going to try this from scratch with no promises this pattern is even going to work.  In this post, you'll get a brief idea on how I come up with a general sense of the pattern. 

And if common sense dictates anglers try to match the hatch, then this pattern should in theory be more successful during cooler water periods than the others.

First you are going to need a small blank roughly 2 1/2 "- 3" long.  Since bluegill at this size tend to be more broad than thick I opted for the thin bodied generic baitfish crankbait pictured to the left as a reasonable imitation.  It comes in at a little over 2 1/2" and about 1/5th of an ounce without hooks..

I couldn't tell you were I bought it from, as I typically order a couple hundred over the course of the year from various manufacturers and resellers.  I've used it on several different occasions with decent success so I know it runs fairly well

Choose a crankbait within that size range any style you prefer to throw.  This pattern should still work with it.  Make sure you clean the crankbait before you tape the bill.  Soap and water have worked well for me on most baits, but occasionally I'll run into a few that need to be cleaned with rubbing alcohol.

I start off priming the crankbaits  with Rustoleum Flat white.  It generally covers the baits pretty well. with just a light spraying. 

 The key is not to over do any of the painting.  In order for any crankbait to run effectively, one must try to keep the coatings thorough yet light. Excess paint equals excess weight and weight can be a killer on crankbait action.

One to two coats should be sufficient to get the covering you need to prime.  Once you've finished priming it, let it dry for at least an hour or go over it quickly with a heat gun to help set the paint.  

That step is important because painting over top of wet or slightly dry paint can result in some truly undesirable after effects once your finished and go to seal the bait.  Air bubbles, cracking, chipping etc.  You get the gist.  Patience is truly your friend when it comes to painting baits in general.

After I am satisfied everything is dry, I look through the photos I am going to use to reference the pattern.  As you can see from this photo to the left, in cooler to cold water, the bluegill patterns often change hue.  This particular photo is indicative of the range I often run across in early spring and late fall, a time when bigger walleyes are making forays into the shallows to feed.

Why is this important?  The closer an angler can get to the current colors of the dominant forage, the better chances they stand at tempting or provoking strikes.  Matching the hatch...

Getting back to the crankbait.  The first thing I look at when attempting a new pattern based on real life forage are the underlying colors and how they are spread out across the fish.  Also bear in mind that you will work from the bottom up.    

In this case, I am seeing a creamy light orange color predominating from the belly up almost to the shoulder.  That orange is a bit more visible on the throat area and the sides of the fish are plum colored, transparent, and overlaying the orange. 

I also know there is some yellow in there and that the yellow will help brighten up the orange I put on later.  So I start with the belly first, putting enough on just to lightly cover the underside.

All the paints I use are createx water based paints and createx reducers.  The airbrush is an Iwata HP model along with an Iwata Ninja air compressor set on high

After that initial coat, I apply another light coat over the aforementioned area, but this time, I also bring that yellow up along the sides and stop just before I reach the crankbaits shoulders.

If you look at the reference picture again, you can see how high the lighter color goes along the sides of the fish before the darker shades of purplish pink blend in over top of it.  In order to get this, I typically try to go a lighter higher than I see with the photo and blend everything in approximately where it should be.  Nothing in nature is perfect so you do have some leeway when it comes to where you are blending...up to a point where the bait looks totally unnatural.  

I mix in some fluorescent orange with what yellow I have left in the airbrush.  Just enough to get it that creamy orange color I am looking for.  

Once I manage to mix it to the hue I want I apply it to the throat and upper belly area.  When this is done correctly, you'll see the orange blending into the creamy yellow naturally.  It just looks right to the eye.

After a quick heat setting with a small portable ceramic heater, I  apply the purple or plum color to the sides of the bait. 

A transparent here would have been way better but unfortunately I had to use a fluorescent plum and mix in a little extra thinner to give it a transparent effect.

I started along the spine and over-sprayed the shoulders halfway down the sides until I got a really good blending effect.

Where the purple meets the yellow, you can see an orange blending area.  Looking closely at the reference photo, you will see that same effect, albeit in a few slightly different areas. 

Used a bit of transparent gray and fluorescent plum mix to come up with the striping color.  I like contrasts, but if you notice with the reference pic, the common bluegill striping naturally blends into the plum color of the sides.  

I sprayed it  lightly through a regular hair pick I mix in some flourescent orange with what yellow I have left in the airbrush.  Just enough to get it that creamy orange color I am looking for.  Once I manage to mix it to the hue I wan.t I apply it to the throat and upper belly area. 

When this is done correctly, you'll see the orange blending into the creamy yellow naturally.  It just looks right to the eye placed  lightly up against the bait to get the striping.

Initial coat of sepia along the back,  Use light even coats,  It might not seem like you are getting any paint on the bait but trust me, go even one coat too many and it will darken up the bait. 

I used three in total for the entire pattern, but in hindsight, I should have used just 2.  This would have kept the bait lighter and resulted in a more striking end product.

But as I have said, this a first attempt and up to this point, I am feeling optimistic this bait will turn out exactly how I want it to.

I apply a second coat of sepia along back and sides. Notice how the sepia really just makes everything more lifelike.

I am not sure how I ever painted natural patterns before I ran across Sepia.  You wouldn't think upon looking at it in a bottle that it could very well be the most important color in your painting inventory, but trust me, it is.  It is absolutely an essential color to have and to use in moderation especially if you love painting natural baitfish patterns.

Next I made up a weird mossy green after I thoroughly cleaned out the airbrush,  to go over the back and slightly over shoulders.  

No specific recipe for this but a combination of colors I had on hand.  Any shade of natural green should actually work, but this is close to what I remember color-wise to what the bluegill have in the lakes I fish.

Each lake or body of water that has bluegill has its own shades and hues for them.  As you can see from the very top photo at the beginning of this article, that shade of green I used on these baits came very close to what that fish exhibits.  

Side view of the green I used.  

Again, it is looking like a really close match which is amazing since I mixed everything by eye with the colors I had on hand and had no specific recipe. 

A closer side view of the green.  More of a sunfish type of green than anything, but it works and I decided to run with it.

If I wouldn't have liked it at this point, I would have mixed up a slightly darker color green by eye and the colors on hand and reapplied the paint to get it the way I wanted.  

A note of interest -I haven't used any of the color shifting paints, but I am willing to bet they could be used to great effect in this pattern to provide a bit more realism to the finished bait.  

Do not know if applying the sepia in the next step would interfere with the color shifting properties of that paint though.

One more time with sepia or transparent black.  At the time, I liked the way it darkened everything up and blended everything together pretty naturally..  

Hit the gills with the bluegill black flap. I used a homemade template for that flap, which is made out of laminating sheet.  Simple and effective.

This really brought this lure to life. As I said earlier, I had used three coats of Sepia and I believe 2 would have gotten this a shade lighter and made everything else pop.  

Another splotch of yellow for some extra punch

I added the eyes and viola! The finished product. 

 A little darker than I wanted but damn these really look great.  Cannot wait to get them sealed and hardware put on them.  

All in all, I can see a few areas where I should have went lighter to help mimic the reference photo, but this is still an acceptable attempt.  

I like this better than some of the other bluegill patterns I have painted in the past.

I hope this provided some clarification on how I approach painting natural baitfish patterns to crankbait blanks.  Everyone has their own process of painting.  That is what makes this hobby great.  You learn new things, new techniques for bait painting and if you have a specific idea, you can use a few blanks and try it out to see if it works.  It either does or it doesn't but ultimately, the fish will let you know, and I am chomping at the bit to see how well these work in the early spring.  So until the next article

Keep those lines wet, those hooks sharp and those fish afraid.

2021: GOALS, TARGETS AND OBJECTIVES

 

Becoming a better angler is not just about getting out and just putting in time.  It really comes down to how much effort you are willing to put out to get better.  But after looking back on the banner year I had in 2020, looking forward at 2021 seems somewhat more intimidating. 

You see, 2020 was a new benchmark year for me, in terms of numbers and size of fish and in a lot of ways, I am not completely sure how I am going to top it.   It will definitely be a challenge.  Between the sheer number of Master Angler Catch and Release fish, the numbers of fish caught,

In order for me to even have a chance at breaking even, I cannot rest on past success.  One thing I've learned is that every year is different than the previous, with differing prevailing conditions.  

Adapt and improve, recognize and improvise, understand, observe and predict...all facets of an unending search for the angling success I am seeking.  I intend to embrace them fully and wholeheartedly and learn as much as I possibly can.

I'm going to have to get some goals targets and objectives put in place and hold myself accountable to make sure they happen and I move steadily and purposefully forward.  Items, I feel, will pay off huge dividends in the future.

I know from past experience that someone saying they are going to change things and then following through with making those changes are usually two completely different tangents. Life happens, old habits die hard, time is fleeting...tired excuses or reasons that do nothing but hold a person back from meeting their true potential.  A person doesn't have to look any further than a month after the infamous New Years resolutions to see how often good or even noble intentions get left behind in the dust.

So, after recognizing all this a few months back,  some serious analysis has been happening  the last month or two, in an effort to give myself  in-depth views of areas I am lacking or need more work or improvements on.   And the more I looked objectively at what I think I know and what I don't know,  the more areas I discovered needed work. Too many areas to work on in the course of a year, no matter how often I fish.   Very sobering facts that I feel in retrospect have held me back without me even realizing it.

From what I've read and experienced, setting measurable attainable goals is the key to actually following through on making them a reality.  And thankfully, most of the items I finally settled on this year  are easily attainable.

To give you a better idea on some of what I am looking at, here  are just a few items:

GOALS 

• Keep average trip prices to  below $250 per trip (thinning this cost allows for more trips on the same money over the course of the year)
• Start hitting the Glacial Lake region in northeastern South Dakota ie Waubay, Roy, Enemy Swim. estimate about 2 trips in 2021
• find affordable quality lodging in that area
• Begin hitting the Mobridge, Cheyenne and Pollock areas on a regular basis as I look to improve my success rates in my walleye fishing campaigns.
• Boat at least 3 salmon in 2021
• Hit Lake Sakakawea 

2021 TARGETS-(SPECIES)

• 28+" walleye
• 40+" Northern Pike
• 24+" Rainbow
• 30" Catfish (any species)
• Brown trout
• Lake Trout
• special target- to be named later

OBJECTIVES-GENERAL (FOUNDATIONAL and TECHNIQUES)

• fish between 3-4 new in-state waterbodies the 2021 season, preferably of differing classifications.
• fish between 2-4 new out of state waterbodies the 2021 season.
• Fish approximately 250-300+ days in 2021
• Get the boat out onto the water no less than once a week after Ice out up.
• Work on bottom bouncer spinner rigging/crawler harness/mayfly rig fishing-walleye
• Planer boards and Dipsy diver usage-walleye, trout, and salmon
• slip bobbers-walleye
• spoon trolling-walleye and salmon
• better knowledge and awareness of depthfinder and capabilities

OBJECTIVES-OTHER

• develop new tarping framework for versatrack rails in the Tracker

As you can see, most of these are measurable and the remaining items are either a simple yes/no answer.  I do have a bunch of other goals this year, but none that would warrant much more interest than these. Those listed have taken priority and these will be the ones I focus in on.  

So, its roughly about 60 days before the 2021 campaign starts its blitzkrieg across the midwest and parts of the western US.  And while I won't be fishing on a regular basis during this interim, I will be busy getting a lot of items, equipment, and tackle ready.  I'm chomping at the bit to get this show on the road, but I definitely have a little healing up to do from last years onslaught.  That 60 days should help out immensely and get me ready. So until the next blog entry

Keep those lines tight, those hooks sharp and the fish afraid